Review: Hungry Mother(TV Diner) - Named as an homage to a Virginia state park, Hungry Mother in Cambridge's Kendall Square is a two-story, minimally decorated bistro offering up high-style Southern comfort fare with a French flare. We neglected to make a reservation on the busy Saturday night we visited, but within a half hour were escorted to one of two tables in the downstairs bar area - a prime spot for peering into the tiny, immaculate and efficiently run kitchen.
We began with the country ham, angel biscuits and pepper jelly. Two small melt-in-your mouth biscuits, paper-thin slices of ham and a dollop of piquant jelly were heavenly.
Our order of fried green tomatoes encased in a red remoulade was delectable. The sturdy slices of lightly battered tomato were sided by a peppery arugula salad and topped with thick bacon.
On to a perfect portion of roasted chicken with vegetables, grits and red-eye gravy. There was nothing fowl about this peach of a dish - the crisp-skinned chicken and down-home sides made our eyes light up and our tummy say howdy!
Just when we thought it couldn't get better, we tucked into the cornmeal crusted catfish, served up with red rice, andouille sausage and green tomato relish. Oh, mama, Hungry Mother chef Barry Maiden and his staff had us purring over the crunchy filet and noteworthy sides.
Desserts are masterful at Hungry Mother.
An individual chocolate cream pie was outstanding. The sweet velvety filling surrounded by flaky pastry topped with fresh cream was all comfort and joy.
And a peach and blackberry cobbler crowned with vanilla ice cream was just plain irresistible.
Service was flawless - even though we weren't seated in the central dining room, our server Stacey, co-owner John Kessen and terrific bartender Ned made us feel right at home.
And the price point at Hungry Mother is exceptional, with appetizers from $3 to $11; entrees from $18 to $26; and desserts a sweet $7.
For its extraordinary fare, elegant presentation, soothing atmosphere, no-rush service and prudent prices, Hungry Mother will take the Platinum Plate.
Open Tuesday through Sunday for dinner Call 617-499-0090 or visit hungrymothercambridge.com
Location:
Hungry Mother
233 Cardinal Medeiros Avenue
Cambridge,
MAUnited States
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