A Tiny Noodle Bar Brings Big Flavors in Southern Maine

Southern Maine is immensely appealing. Nearly every coastal city and town between the New Hampshire border and Portland has something to offer, and hidden away among the bustling communities of York Beach, Ogunquit, Kennebunkport and Old Orchard Beach are little hideaways that often get overlooked by visitors. 

There are old-fashioned fishing villages (Cape Porpoise), exclusive beachfront neighborhoods (Biddeford Pool), unspoiled towns on rocky shorelines (Cape Elizabeth) and a compact section of Kittery that’s one of the hottest places not only in the state but perhaps in all of New England. Indeed, Kittery Foreside is a wonderful neighborhood that feels like a little piece of Brooklyn on the Maine coast, with its focus on the arts, interesting architecture and a restaurant scene that, if anything, is a tad frustrating — even though the Foreside is only a small section of Kittery, there are simply too many top dining and drinking spots there to hit in one trip. 

Among the best of them is a little Asian eatery called Anju Noodle Bar that is so great that making the one-hour drive from the Boston area just to go to this restaurant is not as silly as it sounds.

To many, Kittery is all about its factory outlets and the handful of terrific restaurants nearby, including Robert’s, When Pigs Fly and Bob's Clam Hut. It’s a shame that visitors to the state’s southernmost community often don’t get beyond the stores on either side of Route 1 because there are so many nooks and crannies in both Kittery Point and Kittery Foreside to explore. 

The heart of Kittery Foreside is Wallingford Square, which is technically Kittery’s downtown area, a formerly gritty waterside industrial area that’s now hip without being overly pretentious. Much of the activity is along a narrow one-way lane that starts out as Government Street and takes on the name Wallingford Square near its end, and this is the part that has so many dining options, including Anju Noodle Bar. The restaurant is housed in a large brick building that is a centerpiece of the neighborhood, and also home to Lil’s Café (known for its sublime crullers) and a cozy cocktail bar called The Wallingford Dram.

Like other businesses in Wallingford Square, Anju doesn’t have a whole lot of space, but it makes the most of its rather tight digs. Counter seating is set up along the large windows looking out at the street, while a mix of high-tops and regular tables sit along one wall and in the middle of the space. The center of the room also has a bartop with stools where patrons can enjoy a bite to eat and a drink while chatting with the folks who work here. An old-looking and slightly beat-up wooden floor gives Anju a lived-in look while art on the walls adds some cheeriness to the space. 

One interesting feature is the little unmarked door to the right of the bar that leads to a hallway through the heart of the building, and gives you access to the Wallingford Dram without ever having to go outside (there's an outdoor entrance to the lounge around the corner Anju's entrance, too).

Even though it has “noodle bar” in its name, Anju offers more than just noodle dishes. The “intricate free-style Asian cuisine,” as the restaurant's website calls the menu, takes cues from the food of Korea, Japan, China, Thailand, Vietnam and Laos. 

Appetizers should not be overlooked here. The pillowy mushroom bao is positively dreamy while the pork belly bun gets a nice kick from kimchi mayo. Fans of seafood can order local seared scallops with hot and sour coconut broth. 

PHOTOS: Pan-Asian Cuisine at Kittery Foreside's Anju Noodle Bar

Perhaps Anju’s signature offering is the spectacular ramen, rivaling some of the best in New England, including  standouts like Ganko in Brookline and Y Noodle & Bar in Providence. All ramen options (except for the vegetarian version) have an ultra-rich base of bone broth — one highlight is an otherworldly paitan ramen with dashi (a broth used in miso soup), chashu pork belly, woodear mushrooms, black garlic oil, fermented hot sauce made in-house and an egg. The spicy miso ramen also uses pork belly, while the shoyu and jiro ramen use pork shoulder; the veggie version has roasted tofu, roasted beets and rice balls — all have the option of extra heat from the bottle of hot sauce placed on the table. 

Anju offers duck-based and vegetarian versions of yakisoba, stir-fried ramen noodles, and the former gets an extra dose of flavor and texture from duck confit. 

A couple of Southeast Asian options should make lovers of heat happy, including the bun bo hue, which is a spicy Vietnamese soup with braised beef and vermicelli, and khao poon, a spicy Lao soup with chicken and vermicelli. Both also have a base of bone broth. 

While it doesn’t look like the type of place that might feature endless drink options, Anju indeed offers much in the way of beer, wine, sake and cocktails, the last of which come courtesy of Anju's neighbor. 

Maine has become one of top states in America for craft beer, and options from local breweries such as Bissell Brothers and Rising Tide can be found here. More than 50 red, white, rose and orange wine options from around the world are available at Anju, while a number of sakes can be ordered by the glass or bottle along with cans and juice boxes. The Wallingford Dram supplies canned mixed drinks to Anju, including a mai tai and an old fashioned, and a Shirley Temple is available for those who would rather not have alcohol.

Kittery Foreside, especially Wallingford Square, is one of those neighborhoods that food lovers will absolutely adore, and Anju Noodle Bar helps lead the way with its reasonably priced dishes, wide variety of beverages and friendly overall vibe. There are certainly other restaurants and bars to try in the Foreside, but it’s very difficult to walk past this outstanding Asian eatery without stopping in for a bite to eat and a drink.

Anju Noodle Bar, 7 Wallingford Square #102, Kittery, MA, 03904. anjunoodlebar.com