(TV Diner) - Step into the 1854 Tap Room, and you step back in time. More than 100 years ago, this was the tavern in the basement of The Stone House, a seaside estate in Little Compton, R.I. A few modern conveniences (like electricity) have been added, but much remains the same in this dimly lit, romantic restaurant, which has a huge fireplace and rustic stone walls. If only those walls could talk…
The Tap Room might be old, but the staff is young and vibrant. Before you know it, you're sipping on a cocktail and sampling some of the very best food around.
The Roasted San Marzano Soup comes in a small bowl. It's so good, you'll wish there was more. It is made with San Marzano tomatoes, considered by many chefs to be the very best tomatoes in the world. And it's flavored with basil-infused Reggiano cheese. What's not to like about that?
Not to be missed are the Corn and Oyster Fritters, nine to an order so there's plenty to share but they're so amazing, you won't want to share a single fritter. They are light and golden and filled with the combined flavor of local oysters and fresh sweet corn. The Green Goddess dipping sauce on the side puts this dish well over the top.
The Roasted Salmon Béarnaise should please just about everyone. This is a thick slice of salmon cooked to perfection and drizzled with a subtle Béarnaise sauce. Accompaniments include golden brown Baby Yukon potatoes, roasted asparagus and the most flavorful broccoli we've ever had.
For a more casual meal, the Smoked Pulled Pork Sandwich is an excellent choice. The tender pork is flavored with a maple barbecue sauce and served on a buttery brioche bun with a tangy slaw and tavern fries, a mix of regular and sweet potatoes.
If you have room - and that's a very big if - you've just got to try the Apple and Toasted Walnut Strudel topped with vanilla bean ice cream. This was a generous serving. The pastry is oh-so-flaky, and the apples have just the right amount of crunch left in them.
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The Blueberry Tart is a smaller dessert, a bit tart but a bit of whipped cream gave it the sweetness we were looking for, with a sprinkle of fresh blueberries as a garnish.
If we gave out report cards, the 1854 Tap Room would get straight A's for its very special historic atmosphere, attentive service and extraordinary food. So that translates to the Platinum Plate, which we rarely award.
Appetizers will cost you between $6 and $14. Entrees are in the $10 to $28 price range. Desserts are $7 each.
The 1854 Tap Room at The Stone House is located at 122 Sakonnet Point Road in Little Compton, Rhode Island. It is open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday from 4 to 8 p.m., with a brunch every Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. For more information, call 401-635-2222, or visit www.stonehouse1854.com.
