Review: Capriccio

(TV Diner) - Capriccio is a Rhode Island institution, a landmark restaurant in Providence that has been serving high-end food since 1976. It's an unusual subterranean restaurant located one flight down from street level. When the doors swing open, you enter the dimly lit, white linen dining establishment, which reminded us of an Italian grotto.

The menu is most definitely continental, offering everything from caviar to frogs' legs, and that's just for starters.

First off, we recommend the Clams Capriccio. Each tender clam is topped with a bit of garlic and buttery breadcrumbs. They're broiled and served on the half shell in a pool of more melted butter.

The Roasted Baby Beet Salad consists of a mound of baby arugula dressed in a honey and white balsamic vinaigrette and then showered with pine nuts, kalamata olives, feta cheese and focaccia croutons. Generous chunks of red and golden beets garnish the plate. A simply wonderful combination of very different flavors.

The extensive menu has a definite Italian accent, but with a modern twist. While most Italian restaurants offer spaghetti and meatballs, Capriccio serves huge tubes of pasta coated with a smooth pomodoro sauce, and the meatballs are made with kobe beef. These were by far the most tender meatballs we've ever experienced on TV Diner!

The Haddock Aqua Pazza was quite impressive, a super-thick cut of boneless fish "swimming" in a seafood broth flavored with tomatoes, spinach, olives and onions. Roasted baby new potatoes "anchored" this dish.

Desserts are old school classics, including crepes suzette and flaming cherries jubilee prepared tableside. We felt like we were kids again as we devoured the old-fashioned Spumoni ice cream. The Chocolate Hazelnut Torte was a bit more modern, with its rich mousse-like texture.

The service was as outstanding as the food at Capriccio. An entire team of waiters in tuxedoes took care of us during our dinner there. It's easy to see why this restaurant has a prestigious clientele, including the rich and the powerful.

Capriccio is a very special restaurant. Some people might say the dining room needs a little updating, but based on the superb food and service, we feel we must give the Platinum Plate to Capriccio.

Appetizers range from $8 to $90 (for the caviar). Entrees run from $25 to $43. Desserts are in the $9 to $10 price range.

Capriccio is located at 2 Pine Street in Providence, Rhode Island. It is open every Monday through Friday for lunch and every night of the week for dinner. Free valet parking is offered. For more information, call 401-421-1320, or visit www.capriccios.com.