Located in the venerable Vanderbilt Grace Hotel in Newport, Rhode Island, Muse is the very definition of elegance. Pale blue walls, an inviting fireplace, original works of art, extraordinary chandeliers, gracious tables and a grand piano lend a Great Gatsby feel to this sophisticated restaurant where celebrated chef Jonathan Cartwright is reputed to take fine dining to new heights.
Muse offers a prix fixe menu of four, five or seven courses, so we went with the four course selection, starting with a heavenly Carpaccio of beef tenderloin, glazed with tomato chutney and paired with garlic ice cream.
A tiny quail breast with mushroom tortellini and plum wine sauce was as appealing to the eye as it was to the taste buds, and we were happily surprised by a portion of foie gras at its side.
On to the intermezzo portion of this elaborate meal. A zesty broth was the fine base for a cup of French onion soup, but a woodsy mushroom terrine held little flavor.
We then dined like kings on two extravagant main courses.
A pan roasted Lola duck breast with grilled peaches and a cardamom infused sauce was ample in portion with the game poultry and fruit making for a divine combination.
And buttery venison medallions on spiced sweet potato puree with bacon sautéed pearl onions in a blueberry gastrique was a bold and successful use of intense flavors.
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The dessert course soon arrived and we spooned our way through a creamy, dreamy peach and blueberry brulee with blueberry sorbet.
Then on to a light-as-a-feather pear soufflé with cinnamon anglaise.
Truly amazing.
The entire wait staff is exceedingly charming and congenial at Muse, so we were surprised by a few basic service slip-ups. Our water glasses and bread plates were not refilled. And we were not asked if we wanted another cocktail or even coffee…quite bewildering.
Take note – dinner at Muse falls under the very special night category. The four course menu is $75 per person, the five course prix fixe is $95 per and the seven-course tasting comes in at $120.
Overall, Muse, in its gilded glory, deserves and will receive a very gleaming Gold Plate.
Open daily for dinner, Muse is located in the Vanderbilt Grace Hotel at 41 Mary Street in Newport, Rhode Island. Call 401-846-6200 or visit www.vanderbiltgrace.com.
