(TV Diner) - Small in size, yet generous in décor, El Centro is tucked within a residential area of the South End of Boston.
Open less than a year, the brick-walled eatery, enhanced by a splendid ceramic ceiling, murals of entertainers from Mexico and rustic wooden tables, has quickly captured attention for its authentic Mexican fare, with a focus on dishes from the Sonora region.
We had to try a house specialty - grilled corn on the cob topped with Romano cheese. Mouthwatering to the max, this scrumptious starter left us wanting for more.
And an enormous bowl of chicken tortilla soup was equally relished. The savory chicken broth, kissed by tomato and brimming with shredded chicken, avocado and tortilla strips warmed body and soul on the frigid night we visited.
On to an amazing carne asada. The tender strip of charcoal grilled steak was expertly seasoned and partnered perfectly with refried beans, house made guacamole and salsa.
We then tucked into a plump chile poblano relleno bursting with chicken, topped by a piquant piccadillo queso sauce and served with delicately flavored rice. Out of this world good is the only way to describe this dish.
Two traditional Mexican desserts were offered, so naturally we sampled both.
A square cut of flan was sturdy, flavorful and completely satisfying. But the homemade churros took the cake in the dessert contest. The three slender fried pastries coated with cinnamon-sugar were a magnificent balance of crisp and creamy textures.
While our server was extremely charming and knowledgeable about the menu, the meal was not paced well. Appetizers arrived the same time as the main course, making for a confusing and crowded table. Sorry, but points off must be taken!
Value is high at El Centro, with appetizers from $5 to $9, entrees $10 to $25 and desserts weighing in at $7.
El Centro is to be applauded for its cozy atmosphere and fantastic food, but the kitchen should pay more attention to timing. However, with that said, El Centro will still receive a Gold Plate.
Open daily for lunch and dinner, El Centro is located at 472 Shawmut Ave. in Boston. Call 617-262-5708.
