(TV Diner) - The history books will tell you that Loie Fuller was the first American to perform modern dance techniques in Europe. However, TV Diner's here to tell you that it's one seriously artistic eatery in Providence, Rhode Island. Let's hope the food can match the outstanding atmosphere.
If you are a fan of Art Nouveau, you're going to love Loie Fuller's, a rather unusual restaurant in Providence, Rhode Island. Loie Fuller was a modern dance pioneer in the early 1900s, and she became the embodiment of the Art Nouveau movement especially in Paris. When you step into this namesake restaurant, you are transported back in time. You almost expect to see Loie sitting at the dark and moody bar with Toulouse-Lautrec. Stained glass, ornate lighting fixtures, walls covered with dreamy murals, and lots of dark wood make for a very romantic setting. The food is mostly French with occasional flashes of creative American cuisine.
For example, the Crispy Spring Vidalia Onions served with black garlic aioli are the most delicate fried onion rings we've ever had, and the Beet Salad with dandelion greens consists of paper-thin slices of red and golden beets in a currant and walnut vinaigrette.
The Seared Sirloin Club Steak looked great, but it was a bit chewy. The menu promised shoestring fries, but they looked more like frozen French fries.
The Smoked Pork Shank was a thing of beauty, a great big hunk of tender meat falling off the bone, into a bowl of herbed green lentils.
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Dessert was delightful, the chocolate Pot du Crème is what real pudding is all about, and the Basque Cake was a true surprise, flaky and fruity.
Prices are very affordable, with appetizers ranging from $5 to $14, and entrees from $13 to $19. Desserts are $4 to $7. This elegant little bistro is simply seductive. For that, plus interesting food and unpretentious service, we give Loie Fuller's the Gold Plate. Don't look for a sign, because there isn't any.
Loie Fuller's is located at 1455 Westminster Street in the West End of Providence, Rhode Island. It is open only for dinner starting at 5 p.m. six nights a week, and it's closed on Tuesdays. Sunday brunch runs from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. For more information, call 401-273-4375 or visit LoieFullers.com.
