(TV Diner) - "Diner meets glamour" best describes Nick's on Broadway in the Federal Hill section of Providence, Rhode Island. From its immaculate open kitchen to industrial style ceiling to a mix and match of stainless steel, wood and brilliant red tiles, this chic 55-seat bistro bdefines trendy. We heard that owner Derek Wagner prides himself on delivering world class cuisine made from local ingredients. But how much is brag and how much is fact?
A steaming bowl of roasted tomato soup topped with crme fraiche and olive oil was flavorful to the max and the char-grilled bread at its side perfect for soaking up every last drop.
The cheese plate of assorted farm fresh artisan cheeses attractively presented with preserves, nuts and honey was another stylish starter.
While a hearty portion of herbed chicken with roasted vegetables was moist and tender, we found the lemon-thyme a bit too salty.
But a filet of cornmeal-crusted Point Judith fluke cresting an absolutely delicious tomato and herb ragout was seasoned to precision. The combination of delicately-flavored fish with the robust vegetable stew more than deserved high praise.
On to dessert, starting with a warm apple cobbler with pecan crumble and honey lavender ice cream. Pure comfort and joy.
And a chocolate tasting featuring an assortment of creams, cookies, cakes and candied hazelnuts thoroughly satisfied our sweet tooth.
Local
Service was flawless with our capable waitress never far from view. But we should mention that the acoustics at this popular bistro make for a noisy room.
Considering quality of ingredients and preparation, value is quite good at Nick's on Broadway, with appetizers $8 to $20; entrees $16 to $26; and desserts averaging $9. Take note that bthe dinner menu is rather limited, with a mere five main course selections.
Nick's on Broadway will earn the Gold Plate.
